Our assigned mechanic was Mark Zach who Sam has taught all his suspension magic.
Zach turned out to be a careful and exacting mechanic.
Mark works under Sam’s supervision
Shock update
Right from the start of our suspension update we ran into a bit of a problem with the shock bushes being slightly wider than the brackets into which they were supposed to fit.
I would have used a crowbar to widen the brackets and forced them in.
However, Zach says the pivot points are an important part of the action of the shock, so he wanted to be precise.
Out came the vernier callipers to make exact measurements. He worked out that the bushes were 0.9mm too wide.
Rather than machining them down, he decided on laborious but more exacting hand-filing with frequent stops to measure the progress with the verniers.
Zach files down the bushes
Once the desired width was obtained, the bushes moved into place easily where they will be able to pivot firmly but freely.
“It’s satisfying doing it the right way,” Zach tells me.
Once in place, Zach starts taking precise measurements from the axle to the seat frame to measure the top-out or unweighted distance of the spring.
He then drops the bike weight on to the springs and measures again for “static sag”. Then I get to sit my 75kg frame on the bike and he measures again for “rider sag”.
He says he’s looking or a magic measurement of 30-40mm rider sag.
Precise measurements
He then sets the damping on the top of the shocks under a protective rubber collar according to the Ikon suggestions.
Position 1 is for smooth damping and a solo rider, 2 is for a rider and occasional pillion on average roads, 3 for sporty riding and extra loads and 4 is for touring two-up with luggage.
It’s a bit fiddly to adjust as you have to hold up the rubber collar with one finger while turning the damping adjuster ring with another.